The Bird in Hand, Knowl Hill: Reading restaurant review

That’s what my guests and I found ourselves saying after every first mouthful of each dish we tried at The Bird in Hand.

And, to be frank, every mouthful that followed.

It was only when we could not eat anymore from the revamped menu at the Knowl Hill pub-restaurant that we stopped exclaiming.

Taken over by Butcombe Pub and Inns in November 2020, the Bird in Hand has seen its bedrooms refurbished and its food and drink offering ‘transformed’.

We were very fortunately invited to try out the Bath Road restaurant’s new menu last week.

When I and two friends arrived, we were greeted by a row of pristine Aston Martins.

Our very friendly waiter told us the pub frequently hosts car club evenings, including meet-ups for owners of Ferraris and Skodas, among others.

The entrance to the Bird in Hand is very aesthetically pleasing -- it looks like the front of a small chapel covered in pretty pink blossom.

The Bird in Hand

It is, as the kids say, very ‘Instagramable’.

The interior is just as nice. It’s rustic and complete with wood panelling. It felt like a welcoming, upmarket and relaxed country pub.

With several bird-themed drawings scattered about the restaurant seating area, there is a real springtime atmosphere inside.

We first ordered drinks. I opted for a small glass of Pinot Grigio which was crispy and fruity and cost around £7.

My friend ordered a strawberry lemonade mocktail which looked very enticing and tasted just as good, apparently.

The mocktail

Ordering from the supper menu for our meal, two of us opted for the lamb shoulder (£8.95) to start with.

It came encased in a balsamic red onion croquette and was accompanied by braised peas, gem lettuce, smoked bacon and spring onion.

The lamb shoulder

This was where our first ‘oh my goodness’ came in because the lamb was delicious.

It was tangy, moist and rich and the accompanying greenery complemented the meat well.

The three of us all ordered ‘Sam’s ‘Bangers and Mash’ for our mains, which was the winning dish at the Salon Culinaire ‘Pub Chef of the Year 2022’ awards, according to the menu.

Costing £18.50, it consists of homemade Cumberland sausage, sticky pancetta, red onion and mustard marmalade, savoy cabbage and creamed potato.

the Bangers and Mash

When it arrived, we were first consumed by its wonderful presentation.

The green cabbage acts as a bed for the single Cumberland sausage, with the pancetta resting on top too.

On a separate plate comes the creamed potato in a small circular pot, with a small mug of gravy on the same slate.

The mash accompaniment

And this is where our second ‘oh my goodness’ could be heard, as we dug into the soft, creamy and pillow-esque mash.

The sausage was peppery and had a good, tender consistency and the pancetta was very tasty and not fatty.

Combined with the gravy, the dish was quite salty.

The bangers and mash

Thankfully, the sweet taste of the marmalade provided a welcome juxtaposition, creating the perfect blend of sweet and savoury.

We all devoured the dish -- which was bursting with flavour and punch -- in no time at all.

I think we would all agree it was the best bangers and mash we have ever had, and most likely will have for multiple years to come.

You can tell the chefs have tried and tested all the layers so that they work perfectly together.

Feeling stuffed, we somehow managed to squeeze in desserts.

Between the three of us, we opted for sticky date and toffee pudding (£7.50), lemon and Wye Valley rhubarb tart (£7.95) and the white chocolate cheesecake (£8.50).

The cheesecake

The cheesecake boasted a gorgeous, firm biscuity base which complemented the thick middle and jellied topping.

The lemon tart was tangy and refreshing, with the whipped creme fraiche side helping to provide a wonderfully light texture.

The Lemon and rhubard tart

And the sticky toffee pudding was perfect. It was rich, it wasn’t stodgy and it was extremely light and soft. The butterscotch sauce was delightful.

My third ‘oh my goodness’ came when eating the sticky toffee pudding (we each shared a bit of each dessert) and this was my favourite of the three.

The sticky toffee pudding

All in all, we left feeling extremely content with some absolutely delicious food in our bellies.

The Bird in Hand is a really excellent pub -- the service is friendly, chatty and sophisticated, the food is wonderful, and the setting is very cosy and relaxed.

It is definitely on the expensive side but for what you are getting, it is definitely worth paying a visit.

It feels like the perfect pub for the coming spring and summer months.

https://butcombe.com/bird-in-hand-berkshire/